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THE DAYS BEFORE Thanksgiving usually find
Shawn Thorne working with pounds of exotic mushrooms, thinly slicing
shitakes, chanterelles, portobellos and oysters that will make a delectable
gravy destined for discerning palates. That this year found him at the same
task is a holiday story of serendipity and good will. In the summer of 2001,
Mr. Thorne was a daytime sous-chef at Windows on the World, the chic, costly
restaurant on the top two floors of the World Trade Center's Tower One.
He was in his element there, having trained at
the elbows of some of New York City's greatest chefs, but nevertheless decided
to change venues: A few weeks before the terrorist attack destroyed the Twin
Towers, Mr. Thorne prepared his last meal at Windows on the World after having
become a chef in the kitchen of Momentum AIDS Project, which feeds low income
individuals living with HIV and AIDS.
Now, instead of feeding some 1,000 well-heeled
diners on linen covered tables, Mr. Thorne cooks up his mushroom gravy and
cloves glazed hams and turkeys for the men, women and children who show up with
tickets at the basement of St. Paul the Apostle Church for a Thanksgiving
buffet--a crowd that may not carry American Express cards but is no less
discriminating about the fare.
"They'll let you know
how they feel about the food," says Mr. Thorne, smiling. "They act like they're
paying $40 to $50. They're not shy."
Mr. Thorne, who is 36 yews old, grew up in Harlem
and the Bronx. He worked under celebrated chef Michael Lomonaco at New York's 21
Club, at which time he signed up with Momentum as a volunteer. His friend and
high school culinary classmate, Don McGill, was Momentum's executive chef at the
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In 1997, Mr. Thorne followed Mr.
Lormrace to Windows. But in 2001, when Mr. McGill asked him to join the staff of
Momentum, Mr. Thorne was receptive. The switch would entail a $10,000 cut in pay
from his salary in the high $50,000s at Windows, but Mr. Thorne says he had been
working 60-hour to 70-hour weeks and was tired. Momentum would give him more
time to visit his teenage daughter in North Carolina, He accepted, officially
leaving Windows early in the summer of 2001 but continuing to work at some
private parties there in the weeks before the attack.
Mr. Thorne, who has since been named executive chef, says part of his decision
to leave Windows for Momentum full time was to help others in his native city,
but he is mindful that the decision ultimately saved his own life.
On Sept. 11, he was visiting his mother and teenage daughter in Charlotte, N.C.,
when he saw TV footage of the attack on the World Trade Center--and knew his
friends and former co workers were starting their day at Windows. (Mr. Lomonaco
escaped death that day because he had stopped at an eyeglass store on his way to
work.)
Mr. Thorne says many of his friends didn't realize be was no longer there and
left frantic messages on his home telephone machine that day looking for him.
"People were crying. 'Tell me you aren't there,'" he recalls.
Reflecting on his move to Momentum, Mr. Thorne says: "I'm thankful I made the
decision I did." That decision, he adds, "just came out of nowhere. I just
decided it was time for me to go."
He says he isn't a particularly religious person, but he believes a higher power
was looking over him: "It wasn't my time. I'm more than blessed."
His working life has added up to a study in stark contrasts. At Windows there
were rows of stainless steel stove top burners and double confectionery ovens.
The kitchens where he now cooks typically have one stove with five burners and
one double oven. Unlike at the 21 Club or Windows, Mr. Thorne also has firsthand
contact with his clients, mostly African American and Hispanic men and women who
contracted HIV through either sharing a needle or sex with a boyfriend or
husband.
Momentum opened its doors in 1985 during the beginning of the AIDS crisis with a
mission to serve nutritious meals and provide other programs such as counseling.
Six days a week, the project serves either lunch or dinner or both to more than
100 people a sitting. Its 2,000 clients also can take home canned goods and
fresh vegetables and fruit.
Mr. Thorne sets up shop in donated spaces, often churches, within three of the
city's five boroughs. He works with a dietitian who helps plan the meals to
ensure that the clients are getting the proper balance of fresh fruits,
vegetables, milk, protein and grains. His talents for creating gourmet fare are
largely held in check by his diners' needs: Since he and his six employees are
serving people who are on a multitude of medications and have weak immune
systems, the cooks are sparing with salt and fat.
The organization has a $3.5 million budget, 35 full time employees and some 300
volunteers. It receives most of its holding from federal and state grants. Like
other nonprofit groups, Momentum is seeing more people in need of services and
it is receiving less money with which to care for them. After Sept. 11 of last
year, Momentum used to serve meals seven days a week, but it had to cut out its
Monday meals because of budgetary restraints, says Robert Mauer, director of
community services.
Momentum celebrated Thanksgiving on Tuesday. On that day, 300 people crowded
around round tables and at long cafeteria tables to eat turkey, ham, cornbread
and sage stuffing, vegetable gratin, cabbage and collard greens. By 6 p.m., a 25
quart container of seafood bisque was nearly gone. A few scoops of stuffing
remained. The tin containers of turkey and ham were empty. Clients had brought
backpacks, duffel bags and grocery carts to take home bags filled with stalks of
fresh broccoli, apples pears and bananas.
Momentum's clients are unaware that the man with a toothy grin who looks like a
linebacker spent years in the kitchens of elegant restaurants before cooking for
them, but they are delighted he is there. "The food is great--it used to be too
much grease, mundane," Monte Clarke said after this year's holiday repast. He
had cleaned his white plastic plate of its rice with pigeon peas and glazed ham.
Mr. Clarke, who danced in Broadway musicals, films and television for more than
20 years before going on disability in 1991, has been eating meals at Momentum
since it first opened. He said the lunches and dinners help him maintain a
healthy diet that he couldn’t do on his government stipends alone. "I'm very
grateful for this place," he said.
After nearly two hours of activity, a few staff members and volunteers grabbed a
bite of the Thanksgiving fare. One volunteer was Elise Feuerman, whose
granddaughter, Alison Gertz, died of AIDS 10 years ago and was the subject of
the movie "Some thing to Live For."
Mrs. Feuerman has been dishing out hot food for Momentum clients for 11 years.
She said the clients "walked around looking like cadavers" back in the early
1990s. Now, she said, "they look so healthy."
The 90 year old Mrs. Feuerman, who recently dined at New York’s multistar
restaurant, Daniel, is obviously no stranger to fine cuisine. After having a
spoonful of Mr. Thorne's seafood bisque at the Thanksgiving feast, she was
impressed. "Hmmm, like bouillabaisse, " she said. "Delicious."g |
